This producer makes more Vermentino than any other producer, so clearly they know their varietal.
Climate change is making this varietal harder to grow, at least with the same result, Veseth tells The Daily Beast.
1866, a biologists' word (first attested in Darwin), from variety. In reference to wines, meaning "made from a single variety of grape" is first attested 1941, American English. As a noun, in this sense, attested from 1955.